The statistics of waves over planar coastal beaches: Theory and Experiments

Abstract: The magnitude and characteristics of waves in the coastal zone is of critical importance for the design and operation of most engineering applications. These include topics such as the prediction of coastal erosion and flooding, the design of engineering solutions and the development of nearshore marine renewable devices and offshore wind turbines. With the aim to inform these applications, this work will present recent findings on the accurate modelling and understanding of coastal processes.

Rather than focusing solely on regular wave patterns, this work delves into the statistical representation of random wave variables, a crucial aspect often overlooked in traditional analyses. To achieve this, an extensive dataset comprising long random wave simulations was generated at the Hydrodynamics Laboratory of Imperial College London. By parametrically exploring a broad parameter range of incident storm conditions across three distinct planar beach bathymetric profiles, we aim to provide comprehensive insights into coastal wave evolution. High-resolution analysis of water surface elevations, covering the entire length of the beach and encompassing over half a million waves per location, was conducted. Additionally, numerical investigations employing a phase-resolving, non-hydrostatic model (SWASH) were performed to validate the findings.

Comparative analyses between our datasets and existing theoretical frameworks shed light on the distribution of wave heights and crest heights. Furthermore, we investigate the interplay between nonlinear wave evolution, wave breaking, and the underlying topography of the problem. The present work highlights some disparities between theory and empirical measurements but also offers valuable physical insights. These insights, coupled with practical considerations tailored for engineers, aim to facilitate more accurate and effective coastal engineering solutions.

Mathematics

Audience: researchers in the topic

Fluids and Structures Seminar @ UEA